Virgil Abolh’s Cinematic Fashion Shows for Louis Vuitton’s Men’s Collections on YouTube

The mediatization of fashion explores the ways in which fashion practices (production, consumption, distribution and dissemination) are articulated and depend on the logic of digital media. The aim of this research is to show that in addition to the changes that the traditional fashion show has undergone due to the influence of mediatization, other effects are emerging, such as the appearance of autonomous audiovisual productions on YouTube, characterized by a narrative expansion of the curatorial purpose of the collection. The paper analyzes the case of Virgil Abloh’s film productions for the presentation of Louis Vuitton’s men’s collections.

Natalia Luque-Zequeira y Marta Torregrosa. Año: 2023

Costume design in film: Telling the story and creating Malcolm X’s character in Spike Lee’s Malcolm X (1992)

Costume designers collaborate with film directors to bring the characters in the script to life. Film costumes are a visual tool of a narrative nature with which costume designers meet the diegetic needs of each story. Through clothing, they make internal aspects of the characters visible, such as their transformations, their nature and styles, their passions, aspirations and suffering, as well as aspects of the spatial, temporal and social context in which the stories take place. This study explores costume design by Ruth E. Carter as a dramatic tool in the biopic Malcolm X (1992), directed by Spike Lee. To that end, the function of film costumes is assessed both as a visual and narrative tool that exceeds the aesthetic dimension and is essential to give meaning to any film production.

Marta Torregrosa, María Noguera y Natalia Luque-Zequeira. Año: 2023

Virgil Abolh’s Cinematic Fashion Shows for Louis Vuitton’s Men’s Collections on YouTube

The mediatization of fashion explores the ways in which fashion practices (production, consumption, distribution and dissemination) are articulated and depend on the logic of digital media. The aim of this research is to show that in addition to the changes that the traditional fashion show has undergone due to the influence of mediatization, other effects are emerging, such as the appearance of autonomous audiovisual productions on YouTube, characterized by a narrative expansion of the curatorial purpose of the collection. The paper analyzes the case of Virgil Abloh’s film productions for the presentation of Louis Vuitton’s men’s collections.

Natalia Luque-Zequeira y Marta Torregrosa. Año: 2023

Costume design in film: Telling the story and creating Malcolm X’s character in Spike Lee’s Malcolm X (1992)

Costume designers collaborate with film directors to bring the characters in the script to life. Film costumes are a visual tool of a narrative nature with which costume designers meet the diegetic needs of each story. Through clothing, they make internal aspects of the characters visible, such as their transformations, their nature and styles, their passions, aspirations and suffering, as well as aspects of the spatial, temporal and social context in which the stories take place. This study explores costume design by Ruth E. Carter as a dramatic tool in the biopic Malcolm X (1992), directed by Spike Lee. To that end, the function of film costumes is assessed both as a visual and narrative tool that exceeds the aesthetic dimension and is essential to give meaning to any film production.

Marta Torregrosa, María Noguera y Natalia Luque-Zequeira. Año: 2023

Fashion empowering women: Sterotypes in the TV dramedy series House of Cards, Suits and Emily in Paris.

Fashion has showed a double face in its relationship with women and power. According with some feminist frameworks, fashion was something women need to release in a male-dominated structure. A new wave of authors claims for a power dressing approach, where fashion is a tool to define the new role of women in society. The study here contributes to this debate through the analysis of fashion in TV series. Representation of women in television series is feeding the women position in society and has already generated an interesting academic corpus. Analyzing power dressing elements in 130 fashion looks of 3 women boss characters (Claire Underwood in House of Cards, Sylvie Grateau in Emily in Paris and Jessica Pearson in Suits), a new stereotype of women is recognized. The study includes a qualitative analysis to understand the context of fashion functions in those series. The analysis concludes with three main uses of fashion in dramedy series: fashion to develop powerful characters; fashion to generate engagement with the audience; and fashion as a commercial tool. The study shows how fashion has become a key element for successful television series.

Teresa Sádaba, Carmen Azpurgua, Pedro Mir Bernal y Patricia SanMiguel. Año: 2023

Millennials and Fashion: Branding and Positioning through Digital Interactions

Millennials, consumers born between 1980 and the early 2000s, are characterized by living their lives linked to technology and new forms of communication. In Spain, through social networks, millennials are connected to the main brands, multiplying their interaction and constantly evolving perceptions with them, a phenomenon that contrasts with other generations that could not relate so quickly and frequently with brands. By studying the perceptions that millennials have regarding Zara, H&M, Louis Vuitton and Gucci, we seek to discover the positioning of each of these brands within the selected target, Spanish millennials, as well as understanding the position they occupy amongst millennials. A moderate association exists between attributes and brand, together with a high degree of recognition and awareness.

Joan Francesc Fondevila-Gascón, Pedro Mir Bernal, Patricia SanMiguel, Teresa Sádaba, Silvia Pérez-Bou. Año 2021

Influencer Marketing. Conecta tu marca con tu público

Influencer Marketing es una guía completa que te facilitará, paso a paso, la elaboración de planes de marketing de influencia, desde la elección de los influyentes óptimos para tu empresa y marca hasta la correcta medición del retorno de inversión. Además, podrás conocer estrategias de éxito, aprender de los casos de estudio y conocer herramientas y agencias especializadas en influencers.

Patricia San Miguel. Año 2020

"El papel de la comunicación personal y los líderes de opinión en la difusión de nuevas modas" - Cuadernos Artesanos de Comunicación. Del verbo al bit. Congreso Internacional Latina de Comunicación Social.

La investigación sobre el liderazgo de opinión ha sido tradicionalmente tratada por la comunicación política, desde que Paul Lazarsfeld inaugurara el estudio sobre los influyentes. No obstante, Lazarsfeld también investigó la influencia en el área de la moda. La capacidad de prescripción de estos influyentes es una cuestión muy relevante para las marcas de moda y centra el interés de este estudio. Se trata además del primer estudio realizado sobre influencia en moda teniendo en cuenta los avances que permite en este ámbito la aparición de Internet.

Patricia SanMiguel, Teresa Sádaba, Sandra Bravo. Año: 2017.

Libro Blanco de la Influencia Responsable. Un proyecto impulsado por iCmedia y co-financiado por la Unión Europea, en el que han colaborado diferentes instituciones españolas y de otros países miembros.

"Is the Golden Era of Fashion Blogs Over?" An Analysis of the Italian and Spanish Fields of Fashion Blogging" - Fashion Tales. Feeding the imaginary.

Is the golden era of fashion blogging over? In more than a decade after their first appearance fashion blogs have established themselves as a constant element on the fashion scene, but in many aspects, they have not yet found a definitive position in the field of fashion media, at least in terms of legitimization. Blogs have been often celebrated as instruments for the democratization of fashion, able at the same time to reduce the distance between «the establishment» and ordinary fashion lovers and to push young and unknown outsiders toward the centre of the fashion system; on the other side they have been opposed – at least at the beginning – both by fashion journalists and companies, the former looking at blogging as an unprofessional practice that threatens to destroy the quality of the fashion-related tales, the latter displaced in front of the new ‘fashionable’ practice of inviting bloggers to catwalks and using them as testimonials.
The arguments made in this chapter are based on quantitative and qualitative research carried out in Italy and Spain. Through a desk analysis of the twenty most popular blogs (ten for each country), according to the ranking provided by Le Guide Noir, we investigated the features of the bloggers with the highest level of visibility and they activity on the social media, as some recent studies points out (Sádaba and SanMiguel, 2016). It must be remembered that, even if we label them as bloggers, they manage a structured communication strategy whose blogs are just a piece together with Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest accounts, and so forth. We also recruited a snowball sample of 62 bloggers who were interviewed with qualitative techniques. The Italian sample includes 42 interviewees (11 male, 31 female); testimonies are based on a non-directive method («life- story approach», see Bertaux 1981) and have been collected between 2011 and 2015. The Spanish branch of the study relies on semi-structured interviews to 20 bloggers (3 male, 17 female) collected between 2014 and 2015.

Marco Pedroni, Patricia SanMiguel, Teresa Sádaba. Año: 2017

Impacto Digital de las Marcas de Moda 2016" - Observatorio Digital Fashion Brands

"El estudio Impacto Digital de Marcas de Moda y Lujo 2016 es un análisis comparativo de 120 marcas de moda y su comportamiento en el mundo online que permite: Analizar el comportamiento de 120 marcas de moda: fortalezas y debilidades en sus estrategias digitales. Establecer un análisis comparativo de cada marca respecto a sus competidores. Identificar tendencias de moda que se crean y difunden desde las redes sociales gracias al análisis de contenidos publicados. Conocer el posicionamiento de las marcas españolas en un entorno digital sin fronteras. Conocer el posicionamiento de firmas internacionales en el mercado español. Aprender de las mejores prácticas de comportamiento digital."

Frances Pujol, Teresa Sádaba, Patricia SanMiguel. Año: 2016.

"Fashion Blog's Engagement in the Customer Decision Making Process" - Handbook of Research on Global Fashion Management and Merchandising, 2016, IGI Global.

Little but increasing research has been done about the influence of blogs in the consumer decision- making process. This paper tries to shed some light on this new scenario, analyzing how bloggers are now a key player in the fashion industry, and explaining how they create a closer and more qualified relationship with customers, so they can be more influential. Based on a case study, and considering different approaches to bloggers influence, this article makes it clear that measuring the engagement between bloggers and readers is significant for brands and their marketing strategies with bloggers.

Teresa Sádaba, Patricia SanMiguel.​​​​​ Año: 2016.

"Fashion Influentials" - Fashion Spaces, Almedina Publishers

Since Paul Lazarsfeld’s study on the influentials, carried out in the forties, research on opinion leaders have been developed mainly in the political field. Nevertheless, in his studies, Lazarsfeld focused his attention on other areas such as fashion. Lazarsfeld identified influentials as those people with a “leadership almost invisible and certainly unconscious, face to face; close, informal and daily”, being able to influence in their relatives’ voting and purchasing decisions. These opinion leaders’ or influentials prescribing ability was and is today very powerful and of great interest for its study. Clearly, the influence of the Internet in society has changed the way we communicate, interact and consume. In the fashion area, a research study about the influentials after the advent of the Internet has not been done yet. As a consequence, the main goal of this research is to fulfill this de cadency by providing data of the in influentials in fashion, in the Spanish case.

Teresa Sádaba, Patricia SanMiguel. Año: 2016.

"The professionalisation of fashion bloggers: a comparative analysis between italian and Spanish Cases" - 5th International Conference on Global Fashion. University of Stockholm from 20-21 October 2016.

After ignoring the rise of fashion bloggers as new actors in the fashion scene, over the last few years a number of contributions have explored this topic (Rocamora, 2011, 2012, 2013; see also Berry 2012; Chittendon 2010; Connell 2013; Kretz 2010; Lewis 2013; Rocamora and Bartlett 2009; Pedroni, 2014; Sádaba and SanMiguel, 2014; Mora and Rocamora, 2015; Findlay, 2015). These works analyse the role of fashion blogs, their legitimation in the field of fashion media and their influence on the consumer decision-making process. Also, in previous works of the same research team, the evolution and categorization of the fashion bloggers has been analysed to conclude that blogs have gained a more institutionalized and normalized role in the field of fashion. Despite the presence of many aspirational bloggers, the field has left its “innocent stage” and become highlyprofessionalised and institutionalised, but there are significant differences by countries. In this paper, we aim at going further with the analysis of the field of fashion blogging and its evolution. It is discussed how the process of professionalization is taking place, by considering bloggers’ relationship with brands, the transformations of blogs towards a business model, together with bloggers’ view of the future. Differences among countries are also analysed. The methodological approach is twofold: a comparative analysis between Spain and Italy is carried out through a both quantitative and qualitative analysis. The results of a survey (220 participants, 110 in each country) and 88 qualitative interviews to both Spanish and Italian fashion bloggers are discussed. Findings will contribute to understand the process of professionalization of fashion bloggers and to conclude that the “golden era” of fashion blogging (a mythical period of prosperity and abundance) is over, even if the scenario varies by country. After the emergence of fashion bloggers, a more institutionalized social field has emerged and it works as a part of the contemporary fashion system.

Patricia SanMiguel, Teresa Sádaba, Marco Pedroni. Año: 2016.

"Fashion Influentials in Spain and Italy: Comparing two national fields of fashion blogging"-Presented at the congress: X INTERNATIONAL FASHION CONFERENCE "Fashion On the Move: Rethinking Design", April 2016 Pamplona, Navarre.

The impact of the Internet on society has clearly changed the way we communicate, interact and consume. In the communication and marketing area institutional agents like companies try to find the best way to reach their consumers in the online scenario, but outsiders (such as fashion bloggers) are often able to achieve significant results by using Web 2.0-based tools and innovating the language of fashion communication.
Since the 1990s several studies have shown that marketing based on opinion leaders (Influentials/influencers) is one of the most successful strategies (Mowen, 1990; Weimann, 1994; Keller & Berry, 2003). Which are the personal characteristics of these leaders in fashion? Are fashion bloggers the new influencers? How do they interact with readers and brands? How do these leaders work in the Mediterranean Europe?
This paper explores these issues through a comparison between the Italian and Spanish fields of fashion blogging, where the rise of these new opinion leaders has begun later than in the Anglo-Saxon world, presenting the first Fashion Influentials comparative study between two countries. The study is made of two sections: first, an opinion leadership questionnaire (sample: 200 bloggers, 100 for each country); second, a desk analysis of the twenty most popular blogs (ten for each country) with the highest level of visibility and their activity on the social media.
Findings show the profile of influential fashion blogger (personal characteristics, knowledge criteria and social factors) and the way they interact with their community and fashion companies. From an interpretative point of view the paper (second in a series of comparative studies realized by the authors) aims at discussing fashion blogging as a social field able to change the way the whole system of fashion communication works.

Patricia SanMiguel, Teresa Sádaba, Marco Pedroni.  Año: 2016

"e-Fashion Influential - Moda en el entorno digital, Eunsa 2015.

Hablar de comunicación y moda es hablar de influencia. Con la comunicación se activan los mecanismos de imitación e influencia que propician este fenómeno que denominamos moda. La imitación, como esfuerzo por parecerse a los demás, y la influencia, como capacidad de prescripción, son los ejes fundamentales de la opinión pública. Y ambos, imitación e influencia, son también los fundamentos de la moda. Detrás del éxito de las zapatillas Converse, de las chaquetas Bomber o de que esté de moda la barba o el bigote, hay toda una historia de imitación y de prescripción. Para la moda, la ventaja hoy en día, es que en nuestro nuevo entorno tecnológico, no son sólo los medios quienes tienen esa capacidad de crear climas de opinión, sino individuos que desde sus tablets o teléfonos, son capaces de generar climas sociales a través de sus redes de influencia.

Teresa Sádaba, Patricia SanMiguel. Año: 2015.

"Re-defining Fashion Influentials in the Internet Age: a Spanish Case-Study based on Stylelovely.com" - Revista de Comunicación 13, 2014.

La investigación sobre el liderazgo de opinión ha sido tradicionalmente tratada por la comunicación política, desde que Paul Lazarsfeld inaugurara el estudio sobre los influyentes. No obstante, Lazarsfeld también investigó la influencia en el área de la moda. La capacidad de prescripción de estos influyentes es una cuestión muy relevante para las marcas de moda y centra el interés de este estudio. Se trata además del primer estudio realizado sobre influencia en moda teniendo en cuenta los avances que permite en este ámbito la aparición de Internet.

Teresa Sádaba and Patricia SanMiguel. Año: 2014

Influencer Marketing. Conecta tu marca con tu público

Influencer Marketing es una guía completa que te facilitará, paso a paso, la elaboración de planes de marketing de influencia, desde la elección de los influyentes óptimos para tu empresa y marca hasta la correcta medición del retorno de inversión. Además, podrás conocer estrategias de éxito, aprender de los casos de estudio y conocer herramientas y agencias especializadas en influencers.

Patricia San Miguel. Año: 2020. Editorial: LID